On our way

We will be returning to Canada in a few days. This week is one of saying goodbye, doing or favorite things "one last time", and packing up to go. Yesterday, we went zip-lining, which was so much fun!
There are posts written, not time here to publish. They will go up after our return...

“Life is either a great adventure or nothing.”

Beautiful, beautiful morning! The sun shining on calm, dark blue water. Boats anchored and waves gently lapping against them. 

I sat early on the deck overlooking the harbour, watching fish jump and listening to the sounds of Bocas Town awakening. Mindful of the gift we have waiting for us to develop at home in our cabin. We will have the same opportunity to sit on a deck overlooking the water, in our own home, every day we want to. Gratitude....

 

There was no power in Bocas Town today. When we checked into our hotel last night there was a sign at reception saying it would be off from 7:00 am till noon.The town was installing a new generator. No big deal for us as we planned to be out on the islands till suppertime...Morning toileting was a bit challenging but living in the jungle has taught us to be resourceful...and patient...

  

Breakfast was a bit more challenging. We had little time to find a restaurant with its own generator. Wandered around a bit until we noticed a crowd seated and headed there. They didn't have a generator, but they had planned ahead, so after a breakfast of juice and 89 cent empanadas, we were satisfied and ready to take on the day! What a day it was!

Homer, "our hustler" as we've affectionately come to call him, came to collect us in a boat and took us to the tour site around the corner-nice touch...

There was a little confusion about who was going in which tour when we got there and found many people lined up, but it got sorted out-at least, we think we went on the tour we signed up for...Presently we were on a boat which quickly filled with about 15 others, and off we went. It is poetry watching the drivers maneuver these boats! The can turn on a dime and back into places fluidly with such ease and ability, it is impressive!

Along the way we enjoyed the sights uncommon to us-huge ferry's carrying semi-loads of goods to the islands, lovely, peaceful, sailboats, fishing boats, dugout canoes...

  

 We headed to Dolphin Bay, arriving with 5 or 6 other boat-fulls, and followed by 5 or 6 more. We did see some dolphins, and each time, the boats would start up and race over to the area they were jumping, only to lose them again. Kind of comical...a bit disappointing-no different than watching them in the harbour from our dock. We had dreams of seeing them swimming alongside our boat, and hearing them call...oh, well, next adventure...

 

From Dolphin Bay, we drove through spectacular waters, sighting islands along the way, until we came to a floating restaurant named Jasmin's.

A bit of insight for future: ask for clarification when booking tours. Homer told us they would stop for lunch at a retaurant-we didn't ask for particulars. At 11:30 we did stop, but it was to place our order. We would come back when we'd been to Bastimento Island. Most dishes were $10 apiece, and drinks were inflated x2. 

 

 

No other choices when there is only one restaurant in the middle of nowhere...Turned out the food was good. but with foreknowledge, we would have packed a picnic, eaten on the beach at lunch time, enjoyed a fruit bastido on deck, and no felt so forced by circumstance to pay too much. 

 

We had a lovely time lounging there though...                                                                     

We arrived at Bastimento Island about 12:30...white sand beach, scorchingly hot on bare feet, wide open, blue skies and clear, clear water. 

 

You could stand there and watch the fish swim by!

 Bastimento houses Panamas first marine park, along with the Zapatillas keys. 

It is one of the most important marine habitats in Panama. Beautiful coral reefs, which Michael enjoyed snorkeling in. There are also nesting beaches and a mangrove swamp that all contribute to the survival and protection of many marine species-some endangered. Sometime we{d like to see the turtles lay their eggs here-and what a treat to watch them hatch! Four species of turtles lay their eggs here between March and September...

After our fill of the water, we went and explored the beach. We walked for miles. It was a scorching day-34 degrees and the sand flies were pretty pesky. As long as we kept moving and when we got under the trees, we were much more comfortable to explore.

 

 

Slothful behaviour comes with observing nature...

                          

Playing catch with a coconut!

 

 

Back at Jasmin's Restaurante,  at about 3:00 we took just a little over an hour to eat and relax. Interesting watching the owners hop into a motor boat to run over to their house about 1000 metres away!

Bano

General store

This restaurant is built on concrete and wood pylons and has wooden sidewalks leading to the little general store and the baño. 

 We enjoyed relaxing in  that atmosphere and a whole world was opened to Gabriel, who was so intrigued by the aquarium under our feet...this kid is not the least afraid of water! Just sitting and water the myriad fish swimming by, examining the barnacles with their incredible colours and oysters attached to the pylons under the decking-the miracle of marine life we have no opportunity for in the prairies-a gift to us!
 


 

 

Our driver asked if we'd like to snorkel for awhile longer-we were tired but said we'd come along. When we got there, Michael and the kids took one look at the others jumping in, and promptly followed. I had left my contact case at the hotel so was out of luck...firming my resolve to have my eyes lasered! Oh to have been able to have jumped on a whim! And seen what was down there too!

 What an incredible experience!

 

They had so much fun and  I thoroughly enjoyed watching their reactions-all the while marveling at my kids swimming in the middle of the ocean, with no land in sight! How do you ever begin to describe the miracle of such a life opportunity! 

 

An incredibly enjoyable day! Our holiday could be complete right now and we would be thoroughly satisfied-and we still have another day!

Michael and I are seriously sunburnt! We were sitting on the sides of the boat with the kids in the middle...and I didn't listen to Michael's suggestion of getting sunscreen because I didn't want to pay $16 a bottle for it! I guess I'll be doing that tomorrow...

On our return about 6:00 pm we discovered the power still off. Hmmm...Preparations for Carnival are underway and people are gathering in the streets. In some ways we wish we would be here for Saturdays festivities, in some we are glad we are not...there are semi-loads of beer arriving daily, and we hear stories of how out of control it can get... There is an air of anticipation and excitement here. And so we walked, and saw the sights.

Not terribly hungry after our 3:00 lunch, we took our time. In the jungle we would be starting to turn in around this time-here, there is activity- people don't  get up as early here either. Probably because they're not in bed by 8:00...

We found a couple of little craft shops to spend mucho time in! We checked out a few hostels and hotels for future planning. we explored the candle-lit shops and street vendors booths, and kept our eyes open for a lit resturant.The Chinese place was one but when we wandered in there, the guys decided they weren't interested. Seemed most others were dark so we thought we'd just buy some yogurt at the grocery store-also Chinese owned, and also with a generator-when we came upon the Restaurante Milano in the Swan's Cay Hotel-$120.00 per night and no rooms to accommodate four. 

 They had a generator, or maybe a few, the restaurante, its huge kitchen, and all three floors of the hotel were grandly lit. We approached the restaurante thinking it would be hugely expensive...we were pleasantly surprised. Gabriel and I shared a large pizza for $7.00, Allie had spaghetti and Michael Chicken Cassida, for about the same.

 Today the Diablos Rios are out-people wearing elaborate devil costumes trimmed with bells on the legs and dancing throughout the streets with whips. They use them too! Not on tourists, but they can be seen chasing residents down the street.It seems to be a desirable thing to be whipped-we saw a youth, about 16 or 17, proudly showing off three nasty looking welts to his family who gathered approvingly around. Apparently, a whip-snapping devil oppresses Congos, or African slaves, in the Congos y Diablo carnival ritual. The devil represents Spanish conquerors in the rite, which dates to colonial times.

 Gabriel was quite freaked out. So were we all, truth be told...pretty creepy!

As we were waiting for our meal, we watched trucks driving through the streets with entire drum bands (and a few men in drag) on them-10-12 people crammed into the shortbox playing various types of drums-steel, bongo, etc.-or dancing while being followed by Diablos and spooks...

Saw the lady from the craft shop who told me to put coconut water on the burn on my face-yikes, it's bad...

We went back to our hotel with a cheap bottle of red Chilean wine from the supermarket-Danette would be horrified, we're talking about $4.00 a bottle, but its really quite good- we shared a glass on deck with Joe, in plastic cups we'd gotten from the guy at the front desk-I know, real class...but a nice, companionable end to a really great day...kids contentedly asleep, our feet up, watching and hearing and smelling and feeling life on the harbour...nice!

“One way to get the most out of life is to look upon it as an adventure”

We were up bright and early to go to Bocas Del Toro-for real this time...We were picked up by the shuttle van just after 7:00 a.m. Two girls from Holland were already seated and said there were four more to pick up. Next came a couple from Germany, and then two men from Spain. The two girls from Holland kept us all connected because they could speak Dutch, Spanish, German and English. Makes us all the more determined to become fluent in Spanish. After that...who knows...LOL.

It is sometimes concerning to travel with kids in countries where you're not fluent with language or social and political etiquette, especially with a young child. Everywhere we go though, people think Gabriel is very cute and entertaining...especially when he attempts Spanish...and we are afforded many opportunities and people "looking out for us" because of him. Our shuttle guide was no exception, and made sure we got to the right Customs Officials with all the paperwork we needed in place. So, no worries...

In the shuttle the men from Spain were describing the condition of the bridge we had to cross at Sixaola- it is rotting on its foundation. There are rotting slats on the bridge and then big planks laid crosswise over them-sometimes nailed down...

We were concerned a little foot could go through the spaces between the planks and then the slats so we kept a careful watch on Gabriel while 

navigating our own progress. Well, his foot didn't go through, but his flip flop did-to his absolute horror. He let out a wail, and I'm sure it's not just our hearts that almost stopped.

A good photo opportunity for our fellow travellers once we realized what happened. So, he dropped a shoe halfway between Costa Rica and Panama at Sixaola, Costa Rica and Guabito, Panama.

 A really good story!!  

Fortunately, his feet were cold that morning so he'd worn socks with his flip flops. Good thing-he walked through Panama in stocking feet-we left his other shoe on a table outside the Guabito customs office...maybe some 

other little kid will need it...

 As  we arrived, a fellow generously greeted us with "Welcome to Panama, the heart of the world!" Nice to hear-especially on Valentine's Day! 

This dream adventure is all about heart- honouring and nurturing that in each other, and what's in each others' hearts....

At  Customs in Panama Michael and I were charged $3.00 each for entrance stamp-this seems to be at their discretion....The kids were free. We're not really sure what the fee was for, hope it goes toward repairing the bridge, LOL.

After all the paperwork at Guabito we went down some stairs into town to meet our next shuttle bus and Carlos, our new guide.

We are definitely happy we booked the shuttle service! Round trip for $50.00/ person (as long as you pay cash-credit card providers charge service providers). Rocking J's did a good job of keeping it all organized on their end and the shuttle service providers looked after us well. We were especially relieved to be guided through customs and have group privileges of going through at once to make our next connection. We could have done a bit cheaper...maybe...but it would have required riding a bus from Playa Chiquita to Sixoala, finding the customs office there, navigating it, finding transport-a taxi- at the mercy of their fee, and then finding boat transport. Round trip: cheap, easy, safe, peace of mind! We will go that way next time too! Besides, we're on holiday, so we're splurging a bit!

When we're told to "enjoy our holiday" in Costa Rica it seems strange to us...we don't feel like its a vacation but an adventurous life's dream realized. Going to Bocas, we are on vacation for three days...and quite overflowing with excitement!!!

Oh, we are so enthused about the beauty and experience of this! We've actually surprised ourselves at how much we feel like little kids in a candy shop; we are absolutely giddy: getting into the boat taxi, watching Gabriel and Allie's reactions, looking out over the expanse of the ocean, speeding along, bouncing on the waves, enjoying the mist

splashing in our faces-even running our hands in the water as we zoom by....maybe we're truly learning to take in each experience with more expanse and allowing ourselves to experience more fully...not sure, but it is great to be so ALIVE!!

While I was taking this all in-especially the speed of the boat and the impact of bouncing on the waves -I became mindful of my delight in the moment while almost simultaneously flashing to a memory of being 11 or 12, riding in my mom's cousins' boat on a lake somewhere in Northern Saskatchewan. I remembered being so terrified and convinced we were all going to die. I sat rooted and clenching the seat of the boat, singing the popular version of "Our Father", praying for safety... The contrast to my absolute excitement in now being on a boat, this time on a huge expanse of ocean, was incredibly significant for me! 

           "You must live in the present, launch yourself on every wave, find your eternity in each moment"

                                                                                           -Henry David Thoreau.

                                           I think I may have just done that!

Along the way we observed poverty and wealth side by side. Many houses remind us of homes in Costa Rica, except they have water to contend with as well as jungle.

There is a different feel here than in the Costa Rican Caribe. More prosperity. More westernized. More overall wealth. People are in general dressed more affluently and seem to eat more. 

There's an Old world aura here as we enter Bocas Town. Makes you think of banana plantations and colonial culture....

 We arrived at the bus dock to be accosted by hustlers.

They are quite aggressive even though we said we would wander on our own. We gave ourselves ourselves some space by heading across the street to buy Gabriel some shoes-$4.00 and I think they inflated the price a little when we asked how much they were. We're always a bit suspicious when prices aren't marked and you feel a bit sized up before being given one. We were approached once again as we exited-but eventually all gave up when it was obvious we weren't interested.

 All, that is, except for Homer-who we met after we'd wandered for awhile and began to feel the heat. Homer has made "salesmanship" art form-you've just got to appreciate that. We finally gave in and allowed him to call different hotels for us. We settled on Las Brisas and he took us a few blocks down. We wouldn't have easily found it on our own. Upon arrival, he stayed and acted as our personal secretary-showing us a choice of rooms, and pointing out the amenities. He was very good-and we concede-helpful. Las Brisas is a bit run down, as are most places in our experience of this part of the world-at least by North American standards. You get used to it. For $15.00 per person we have a room with 3 double beds, a hot water shower that comes out of a tank (as opposed to running through a live heating element like our "suicide" shower at home, air conditioning, and wifi. We've chosen a room with two corner windows overlooking the deck that rests on the water. A sign on the door to the deck said it will be closed early tomorrow night due to Carnival parties...so having windows onto the deck may be a good idea or not so good, we'll have to see...for now we think it's fantastic! Gabriel, particularly liked this arrangement, and opened them wide to visit with people fishing off the deck and arriving in boats. He also found it convenient to hop in and out of when going to the deck.

 We agreed to a tour Homer presented us with. He says he'll pick us up at our deck in the morning. There was some discussion over this pronouncement between  the receptionist and Homer, in rapid Spanish, and apparenetly Homer pravailed, because he repeated these arrangements. He promised dolphin watching and snorkeling and a place to stop for lunch. A small deposit to him and we're all set...

Of the three double beds, the one by the windows Gabriel has claimed squeaks on a faulty frame every time he moves...oh boy, we really need to sleep-still catching up from his illness...

Joe and his brother, Billy

Out on the deck, Michael asked me to take a photo of "our boat".

This caused a startled reaction from a man sitting there. We explained...Michael's dreams...turns out, this man, Joe, is sailimg on that boat. It is owned by a fellow from the States, Leo, who owns a number of casinos in San Jose. Leo has a couple of "parking spots" across from the  Las Brisas. There's a huge model of a development on the table downstairs in the communal kitchen that Joe tells us Leo plans to build on Bocas-we have to admit we didn't give it more than a passing glance...guess that says something about our perspectives...

"Our" Boat

This boat is incredibly beautiful to look at. Joe tells us it has two state rooms, a fully stocked kitchen, 12 bathrooms, and cost 1.3 million dollars. 

We thought so much of our neighbour, Calvin, back home (in the snow), whose passion is sailing and who has a dream of traveling to distant places...We so hope Calvin finds a way to follow that  dream...living this way changes you...grows you...opens up so much more to you...Life is just so much richer, fuller, and abundant when lived purposefully-a testimony made deeper in us having taken this path! One which stepped into, will only expand.

Joe is a very nice man! He's from Michigan- aside: we notice when we ask people from the U.S. where they are from they tell us the state; anyone else, including ouselves, tells you their country..hmmm...curious-Joe is traveling with his brother, Billy, and they are staying at Las Brisas while the boat is docked. They have each sold their homes in the States and have stable incomes-the sort of freedom we are working toward....Joe tells us after traveling by boat-even a boat that size-for a few weeks at a time, he needs to get onto land. He begins to want to know what is going on in the world, and connect with people. I think we may have the same need- although that much space would be divine for "alone time", I imagine it could become monotonous after awhile. I like connecting with people too much to isolate completely. Michael thinks he would like the isolation...I think he'd need to be "on the move" before too long as well. We are both introverted and like our own, and each other's company, yet one of our greatest joys is connecting with people and sharig their "stories"...

I so appreciate and hold sacred Joe sharing his story with us...of Vietnam tours, exposure to agent orange, the horrors of what he's experienced, and the reception when he returned home-hard to hear, harder still to imagine, great respect for someone who has "done his work" and still doing it. Can't come out unaffected-obviously-but people with the courage to "face their giants" gain so much depth of character...

Talking to Joe and being in the harbour watching "boat life" got us dreaming of buying a boat...not the million dollar variety...and wondering if we could live that way...Joe tells us Leo is always looking for people to stay on and look after this boat docked here at Bocas, and rents two others as wel...Hmmmm... a world of possibilities...of course, Calvin might have to fly down if we decided to sail...

Joe recommended a place called the Rip Tide for lunch. Very cute place about 4 docks down from us. The restaurnte is on a boat and we ate on the top deck. With and incredible view of the harbour, the gentle rocking of the boat, the smell of the salty sea air, and all the time we want to take, we just sat back and enjoyed the experience. Bocas Del Toro is stunningly beautiful!

 

 On our way out we met Homer having his lunch-care of our tip and his commision from the hotel. no doubt...LOL.

After lunch, we meanderded back to our hotel room and hung around visiting with fellow hotel guests-there are people from Australia, the UK, Germany, Spain, the States...and Canada here now. Taking advantage of the wifi signal, we got to Skype Mikaira (oh, I miss those babies!) and Lynda. It is so incredible to be able to carry the EE Pad around and show people where you are and what you are seeing!

 Gabriel burst into our conversation yelling "Mom, Mom, Mom! You have to come and see!" Oh my goodness! A fellow was fishing off our deck and caught a Stingray! He sure wasn't expecting that! Now, the dilemma was setting it free without getting hurt in the process. It drew quite a crowd. I wish I could have gotten a clear photo but the danger factor took precedence.

Joe was trying to reach Leo to see if he could give us a tour of the boat. Boy, would we have loved to see inside! However, we weren't going to hang around waiting for a possibility...another time, another opportunity...

 

So, off we went to explore Bocas Town...there is such a different flavour here-definitely a Caribbean feel, but not like what we know in Costa Rica...we can't begin describe it to ourselves...

Our area in Costa Rica is focused on tourism but here it is "touristy". The pace is different-relaxed but not tranquillo-at least in town...we'll see what we find on our tour tomorrow.

Weve discovered a little gift shop run by the BriBri. 

Definitely more practised tourism with these BriBri than with those at home in Talamanca. I bought myself a pair of sandals-a splurge-we really feel like we're on holiday! We haven't bought any "souvenirs" in our Costa Rica life-we spend money only on daily living-we have to stay in budget and really have to consider limited suitcase space on the way home. There is a marked difference in prices here though! Most daily living items, especially food, cost pretty much half what they do in our area of costa Rica. Got us dreaming again...we could live twice as long for the same cost?...hmmm...spoke to a woman in the BriBri shop about rentals-she gave us her sisters number...

Bocas Town is a really fun little place! So glad we're here!!

  Later, we went to La Mama Loco Restaurante for a Valentines special-with the kids in tow...A candlelight dinner for two of goat cheese stuffed chicken, mashed potaoes, veggies, salad, champagne, and a brownie sundae for dessert, excellent live acoustic music in the style of Cat Stevens, and a children's menu...dinner for two: $26.00, hamburgers and all the fixin's for the kids: $5.00 apiece, with bastidos and coffee to drink.                                                                     

This meal would have cost about $75.00 in Costa Rica.

We sat overlooking the harbour at night, watching many colourful charcters dock their boats and come sit in the bar-one fellow from Germany came in with his Husky, beautiful  blue eyes and distict markings (the dog), the pair looking like they'd stepped out of a Hemingway-type novel. We were thinking how hot this dog must be in this climate-turns out he was born here...

Back at our hotel, tired and happy, we took the mattress off the bedframe which we had room only to prop by the window. Turned on the air conditioner and promptly fell asleep between two sheets-the only bedding. In the middle of the night, I woke poor Michael by knocking a flashlight to the floor-he thought the bedframe had fallen on Gabriel-on my way to turn off the freezing cold air conditioning. Did I say we needed sleep? A little later I had to get up again to turn it back on...it was that hot. After it was adjusted, it provided white noise in an unfamiliar environment. Best sleep I've had in weeks! Hope my family did too! We have many frontiers yet to discover!!!